Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to discover these tales and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
